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St Machar's Cathedral

Coordinates: 57°10′11″N 2°06′08″W / 57.1698°N 2.1021°W / 57.1698; -2.1021
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St Machar's Cathedral
The cathedral's west front
Map
LocationThe Chanonry, Old Aberdeen, Aberdeen AB24 1RQ
CountryScotland
DenominationChurch of Scotland
Previous denominationCatholic
ChurchmanshipPresbyterian
Website[1]
History
DedicationSt Machar
Administration
PresbyteryAberdeen
Clergy
Minister(s)Barry Dunsmore
Interior
Roof structure over side aisles, St Machar's Cathedral
West door, St Machar's Cathedral
The cathedral entrance

St Machar's Cathedral is a Church of Scotland church in Aberdeen, Scotland, located to the north of the city centre, in the former burgh of Old Aberdeen. Technically, St Machar's is no longer a cathedral but rather a high kirk, as it has not been the seat of a bishop since 1690.

History

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St Machar is said to have been a companion of St Columba on his journey to Iona. A fourteenth-century legend tells how God (or St Columba) told Machar to establish a church where a river bends into the shape of a bishop's crosier before flowing into the sea. The River Don bends in this way just below where the cathedral now stands. According to legend, St Machar founded a site of worship in Old Aberdeen in about 580. Machar's church was superseded by a Norman cathedral in 1131, shortly after David I transferred the see from Mortlach to Aberdeen. Almost nothing of that original cathedral survives; a lozenge-decorated base for a capital supporting one of the architraves can be seen in the Charter Room in the present church.

After the execution of William Wallace in 1305, his body was cut up and sent to different corners of the country to warn other dissenters. His left quarter ended up in Aberdeen and is buried in the walls of the cathedral.[1]

At the end of the thirteenth century Bishop Henry Cheyne decided to extend the church, but the work was interrupted by the Scottish Wars of Independence. Cheyne's progress included piers for an extended choir at the transept crossing. These pillars, with decorated capitals of red sandstone, are still visible at the east end of the present church. Though worn by exposure to the elements after the collapse of the cathedral's central tower, these capitals are among the finest stone carvings of their date to survive in Scotland. Bishop Alexander Kininmund II demolished the Norman cathedral in the late 14th century, and began the nave, including the granite columns and the towers at the western end. Bishop Henry Lichtoun completed the nave, the west front and the northern transept, and made a start on the central tower. Bishop Ingram Lindsay completed the roof and the paving stones in the later part of the fifteenth century. Further work was done over the next fifty years by Thomas Spens, William Elphinstone and Gavin Dunbar; Dunbar is responsible for the heraldic ceiling and the two western spires.

The chancel was demolished in 1560 during the Scottish Reformation. The bells and lead from the roof were sent to be sold in Holland, but the ship sank near Girdle Ness.[2] The central tower and spire collapsed in 1688, in a storm, and this destroyed the choir and transepts. The west arch of the crossing was then filled in, and worship carried on in the nave only; the current church consists only of the nave and aisles of the earlier building.[3][4]

The ruined transepts and crossing are under the care of Historic Environment Scotland, and contain an important group of late medieval bishops' tombs, protected from the weather by modern canopies. The cathedral is chiefly built of outlayer granite. On the unique flat panelled ceiling of the nave (first half of the 16th century) are the heraldic shields of the contemporary kings of Europe, and the chief earls and bishops of Scotland.

The cathedral is an example of a fortified kirk, with twin towers, believed to have been inspired by the central tower of Perth's St John's Kirk,[5] built in the fashion of fourteenth-century tower houses. Their walls have the strength to hold spiral staircases to the upper floors and battlements. The spires which presently crown the towers were added in the 15th century. Bishops Gavin Dunbar and Alexander Galloway built the western towers and installed the heraldic ceiling.

Notable figures buried in the cathedral cemetery include the author J.J. Bell, Robert Brough, Gavin Dunbar, Robert Laws, a missionary to Malawi[3] and William Ogilvie of Pittensear—the ‘rebel professor’.

St Machar's Cathedral has been featured in BBC TV's Songs of Praise.[6][7]

Ministry

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The minister from 2004 to 2011 was the Reverend Dr Alan D. Falconer, who previously worked with the Secretariat of the World Council of Churches in Geneva. In 2011 the Reverend Jane Barron became the first female minister of St Machar's Cathedral. She was formerly minister at St Andrew's Church, Jerusalem and Stobswell Parish Church, Dundee. In 2015 Rev Barry Dunsmore became minister of St Machar's Cathedral.

Notable past ministers include:[8]

Conservation and restoration

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There has been considerable investment in recent years in restoration work and the improvement of the display of historic artefacts at the cathedral. The battlements of the western towers, incomplete for several centuries, have been renewed to their original height and design, greatly improving the appearance of the exterior. Meanwhile, within the building, a number of important stone monuments have been displayed to advantage. These include a possibly 7th–8th-century cross-slab from Seaton (the only surviving evidence from Aberdeen of Christianity at such an early date); a rare 12th century sanctuary cross-head; and several well-preserved late medieval effigies of cathedral clergy, valuable for their detailed representation of contemporary dress. A notable modern addition to the cathedral's artistic treasures is a carved wooden triptych commemorating John Barbour, archdeacon of Aberdeen (d. 1395), author of The Brus.

In 1987, bells from the deconsecrated St Stephen's Church, Ealing were restored by Eayre & Smith and installed in St Machar's. It is now one of the few churches in Scotland to have a set of bells designed for change ringing.[9]

In 2020 the cathedral carried out a £1.85m project to re-slate the roof, clean the heraldic ceiling, and repair some of the stained glass windows.[10][11]

Stained glass

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Scots law and religious convention did not allow the re-introduction of stained glass until 1866. There were no manufacturers or skills, so the earliest windows are of English creation.

The range and quality of stained glass in St Machar's is exceptional.

The Builder Bishops window by Douglas Strachan, St Machar's Cathedral

Ceiling

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Heraldic ceiling of the cathedral

The heraldic ceiling features 48 coats of arms in three rows of sixteen. Among those shown are:

The ceiling is set off by a frieze which starts at the north-west corner of the nave and lists the bishops of the see from Nechtan in 1131 to William Gordon at the Reformation in 1560. This is followed by the Scottish monarchs from Máel Coluim II to Mary, Queen of Scots.

  • Royal Burgh of Aberdeen
    Royal Burgh of Aberdeen
  • Charles V of Sicily
    Charles V of Sicily
  • St Margaret of Scotland
    St Margaret of Scotland
  • King James V of Scotland
    King James V of Scotland
  • Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor
    Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor
  • Christian II of Denmark
    Christian II of Denmark
  • King Henry VIII of England
    King Henry VIII of England
  • King Charles V of Spain
    King Charles V of Spain

Internal burials

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Tomb of Henry de Lichton prior to dismantling

External burials

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See also

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References

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  1. ^ "William Wallace". Archived from the original on 26 January 2021. Retrieved 3 May 2007.
  2. ^ Alexander Mudie, Scotiae Indiculum: Present State of Scotland, (1682), pp.167–8
  3. ^ a b See Cathedral Church of St Machar, Old Aberdeen: A Welcome to Visitors (visitor pamphlet)
  4. ^ See St Machar's Cathedral: A short history and guide (visitor information sheet)
  5. ^ Ordnance Gazetteer of Scotland: A Graphic and Accurate Description of Every Place in Scotland, Francis Hindes Groome (1901)
  6. ^ The Cleveland Way, BBC TV, accessed 2019-06-16
  7. ^ Glory Be To God The Father, hymn, Songs of Praise, accessed 2019-06-16
  8. ^ Fasti Ecclesiae Scoticanae; by Hew Scott
  9. ^ The Bells of St. Machar's Cathedral, 2017
  10. ^ "Raise the Roof". The Cathedral Church of St Machar. 2020. Archived from the original on 11 March 2022.
  11. ^ "Restoration Work". The Cathedral Church of St Machar. 2023. Retrieved 30 September 2023.
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57°10′11″N 2°06′08″W / 57.1698°N 2.1021°W / 57.1698; -2.1021

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